After two and a half years, my Lebanese experience finally came to a close. I’ve had a couple of weeks now to let everything settle down for a bit and gain a little perspective.
The Good
In many ways I am grateful for the experience. Many, many good things came from my stay here in the country.
- Met and married my wife.
- Was able to buy my first car (and now subsequently sell it, something which still breaks my heart), but it’s in good hands as it goes to my cousin.
- Lived on my own for the first time (having shared a flat with at least 2 other people for nearly 8 years).
- I was able to finally work on some projects in the country in my feeble and ultimately fruitless attempt at ‘rebuilding’ the country (more on this in a bit).
- Was able to visit various places in the country (visited the cedars, had a picnic in a valley along a river, visited villages in the mountains, the Beekaa valley, the Silk museum and the soap museum). There were many more places that I wanted to see - but that can come in the future.
- I was able to rekindle friendships and make new ones friends in the country.
- I was able to experience family life in a way I’d longed for my entire life, and attended several weddings.
- I was able to taste seasonable fruit and vegetables, in a way that reminded me of how my mother used to describe the seasons as she was growing up.
The Bad
Working life here was very tough for a number of reasons.
The fact that the country doesn’t have it’s own building standards that they need to adhere to where the final decision ultimately lies in the hands of the client (which begs the question of what a professional design team is meant to be doing). This issue was the toughest for me and one that I struggled really hard to rectify in many instances, but ultimately failed. If I think hard this is probably one of those items that I felt as though I was fighting a loosing battle and in my mind I was ready to leave.
The lack of professionalism between parties was also very clear to me. This could be marked up to a mixture of not knowing any better or even not considering the alternatives.
The Ugly
Which brings us to the ugly. Services in Lebanon are a complete and utter joke. The problem is that there is a lot of talk in moving things forward, but seriously little action to actually getting anything done.
In Beirut, the water is a mixture of clean drinking water, and salty water. I’m sure this isn’t a good thing, but alas there is nothing anyone can do about this. In the summer months it gets even worse. What makes this whole experience even worse is the fact that during the winter months, there is such an abundance of water falling from the skies, but due to Lebanese government incompetence and stupidity water is not stored in any discernible way.
We live in the year 2012, and yet still there are serious issues with regards to 24 hours electricity. It doesn’t exist here. In cities outside the capital, the electricity is even worse. People pay for the regular electricity and for the standby generator electricity (which in this case is a Prime generator). Again in the summer months this gets even worse.
Meanwhile the internet is soo expensive, it was prohibitive for many families. Now it’s gotten better, but it’s still compared to the service you’re getting something that is less than ideal.
Finally we have the transport. If you don’t own a car, you’re effectively fucked. I lived for 12 years in the UK without the need for a car. I’ve covered in excess of 46,000km in the last 2 1/2 years.
This is all the product of a country that has no government. The laws here are not enforced for everyone. Oh there is bureaucracy, but there are enough stories and instances where this is moved over in the name of bribery.
The problem is that I don’t want to be or can’t really be harsh on a country that is building itself after the war. The issue is that rather than moving forward and actually trying to rebuild itself, the country has been going backwards and getting worse.
Transport is no better than it was 2 years ago. A few roads got done, badly.
There is still no government.
Civil marriage is still not part of the constitution.
They’re still fucking around whether or not they should ban smoking from public places.
If you have a new car, you pay more road tax, than if you have an old and busted car that is chucking all manners of shit out of it’s exhaust pipe.
There is not a day that goes by that you don’t here about some food scandal. One of the richest countries with regards to food and natural vegetables is constantly plagued by the lack of a decent health department that just trounces on the assholes that would do such dirty things.
The noise pollution is completely unbearable. Honk first, think later.
Don’t stop at the red light. Don’t indicate.
Broken Dreams
Am I glad I made this trip? Yes, I’m glad. It was something that I had to do at the time. It was important for me to try this out. It was a dream in the beginning that ended up being more of a nightmare. This place is not for me. It never really was. The second my mum and dad left the country and raised my brother and I in Greece, that was it, our land was no longer this land.
Sure I’ll visit from time to time, but honestly this is not where I envision my children being raised, playing in concrete car parks.
This is not the Lebanon my mother planted ideas in my head about. My Lebanon, the one I dreamed of coming back to, died back in 1975 when the first war broke out and the country was ruined for all future generations. My hopes for the country have been squashed, and my memories of the beautiful architecture have been all but raped.
I will never forgive the greedy bastard developers of this country. Out to make a quick buck. I will never forgive the government that couldn’t and didn’t control that greed and try and create a better built environment. I have lived in 5 different cities (Doha will be my 6th) and I put Beirut as the worst city I have lived in - when it should have been my favourite.
It’s the promise of rebuilding that’s gone. The areas that are being rebuilt have nothing to do with the real Beirut.
When I went back to Lebanon, I knew that things would not be like I was used to my entire life. I actually embraced this fact and was actually looking forward to this fact. The problem was of course that I harboured the hope that in time, things would improve.
The reality of the situation however is that if things are to improve, they take a very, very long time to get there. They are at the mercy of people who really don’t understand what they’re doing (and are being paid in the process). If they don’t improve, they just stay in the exact same way, only rotting slowly. And then there are far to many cases where the situation actually becomes more difficult for those in the country. I could recount so many examples of this happening, but then I’d be contributing to the Lebanese’s favourite passtime (complaining), and I think I’ve done enough of it here.
I wanted to write this post, mainly because I want to make sure that my future self, doesn’t forget and remember all my time in Lebanon with rose tinted glasses. Time has a funny way of softening the sharp edges of an experience.
Future
So does the place have a bright future? Honestly, the damage is done for some places, and that is something reasonably frustrating. I don’t see the greed which is destroying the country’s heritage being removed any time soon. Within some areas there might be something that can be done in the future, but I don’t know whether or not this will occur in the next 20 years or will take a lot longer to happen.
I was once super optimistic about the future of Lebanon, and since living there for 2 and a half years, that optimism has been taken out of me, with a much more jaded and sceptical view having taken over.